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If you're ready to start your loc journey, the first question your loctician will ask is: which starter method do you want? The starter method determines how your locs form from day one, how they look during the first several months, and how well they hold up to your lifestyle. Here's a breakdown of every major method from a loctician with 20+ years of experience.
1. Comb Coil
Best for: 4a to 4c coily and kinky hair textures.
Comb coils are created by taking a small section of hair and using a fine-tooth comb to coil the hair from root to tip. The result is a uniform, neat starter loc that locks beautifully and quickly on coily hair. This method is not ideal for looser textures like 2a to 3b because coils tend to unravel on hair that doesn't have enough natural grip.
2. Two-Strand Twist
Best for: Small to medium loc sizes on most hair textures.
Two-strand twists create a full, rich starter loc and are one of the most versatile methods. The twist pattern locks out over time into a round, smooth loc. This method works well on 3c to 4c hair and is popular because it creates a polished look from day one. If you're very active or wash frequently, twists can be more prone to unraveling early on.
3. Braid Start
Best for: Looser textures like 2a to 3b, and very active lifestyles.
Braids grip hair that coils won't hold. If your hair is naturally soft or slippery, a braid start is the most reliable way to keep your starter locs intact through washing, sweating, and daily activity. As the braid locks out, it creates locs with a distinctive flat base that rounds out over time.
4. Interlock / Retie Method
Best for: Active lifestyles, long gaps between maintenance, micro loc sizes.
Interlocking creates locs by weaving the hair through itself using a crochet needle. The result is extremely durable — locs won't unravel with washing or activity. This is the preferred method for anyone who sweats heavily, swims regularly, or wants to go long periods between maintenance appointments. It's also the go-to for micro loc installs.
5. Instant Loc / Crochet
Best for: Clients who want a mature look immediately.
With the crochet method, loc extensions are installed directly onto your natural hair, creating a finished, mature loc look from day one. You skip the puffy starter phase entirely. This is a great option if you're impatient with the starter stage or need to look polished quickly.
Which Method Should You Choose?
The best starter method depends on your hair texture, strand thickness, lifestyle, and patience level. Here's a quick cheat sheet:
- Active lifestyle or swimmer — Interlock or Braid Start
- Want mature look immediately — Crochet / Instant Locs
- 4c coily hair — Comb Coil or Interlock
- Looser texture — Braid Start
- Sensitive scalp — Two-Strand Twist
Still not sure? Take our free Starter Method Quiz and get your personalized recommendation in under 3 minutes. Or shop our handmade loc extensions to get ready for your install.
